Sunday, November 23, 2014

Vogue 6639 As A Wedding Dress

It has been over a month since i blogged due to my computer dying and trying to finish up the last orders of the year. Things are finally starting to calm a bit, just in time for the holidays craziness.
 This was one of my favorites from this year,  I was sent this vintage Vogue pattern 6639 from the late 40s, along with some lovely silk and silk crepe to make a wedding dress. The pattern required resizing, so i traced it and resized from there ( i don't like to mess up vintage patterns) despite all the adjustments made it turned out beautifully. I had to significantly increase the bust size and also lowered the neckline a couple inches, so the collar would still fall at the same level on the bust line.The entire dress is under lined in cotton broadcloth to support the silk and give it more body. The chiffon is sewn to the silk skirt at the waist and pleated together but hemmed separately for more movement. There is also a lovely ivory scalloped lace trimming the collar.
You can see the dress suits her very well, she did a great job choosing the style and fabrics.

I have started posting pictures of projects as i'm working on them on Instagram
you can find me here :

Saturday, October 18, 2014

Custom Pinup Sarong Wedding Dress

This was a custom designed dress, there were several elements that my bride was looking for so i did a sketch to put them all together. She chose a light ivory scalloped lace and a more mate bridal satin. I lined the front skirt drape in lace for a little contrast. Sweetheart neckline bodice lining with boning support. Elbow lace sleeves. The dress is fully lined and finished with a matching covered belt.

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Brigitte Bardot's Gingham Wedding Dress

Styled after the dress worn by Brigitte Bardot designed by Jacques Esterel 1959. There is actually a rare Prominent Designer sewing pattern of this dress as well as a slightly easier to find Advance 9283 sewing pattern, which i of course found after i had already made my own pattern. Sigh... Anyway i had quite a time with the ginham fabric, it was 100% cotton very nice weight and texture but the print was about 2'' off the grain on one side, so the checks seemed to be sliding down hill. I have run into this problem a lot with stripes, plaids and other such prints on cotton. So getting the pieces to line up was nearly impossible, though i think it turned out well despite a few lines being slightly off. Other than that the dress went together quickly. I gathered the eyelet lace myself and made matching covered buttons, i decided to do a bias belt for a little interest.  I also made the short sleeve version earlier this year but never got around to writing about it.

Jackie Kennedy's Pink Suit

Styled after the pink double breasted Chanel styled suit (was actually a copy made in the US with Chanel fabric) worn by Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy in 1963. The color is described as anything from strawberry, watermelon or just pink. I chose a bubble gum shade in a woven cotton boucle suiting. I went with princess seams instead of darts for my client due to her full bust, you tend to get a nicer fit this way than you would with darts. I also added back darts for a slightly less boxy shape.
 Accented with a navy blue collar and trim, double pockets on each side, fully lined in navy blue satin, gold buttons. The skirt is a simple high waist straight cut with a back button and zipper closure.

Sookie Stackhouse's Red & White Floral Halter Dress

 This was a custom request, styled after the dress worn by Anna Paquin as 'Sookie Stackhouse' on the show "True Blood''. Now I will admit I have never seen the show and was only going by pictures. I used a cream and red floral cotton and combined two patterns: The body of an out of print 2004 pattern, McCalls 4455 and my Marilyn Monroe blue polka dot sundress bodice pattern. From the drawing of the pattern you would think that all you would have to do is add a skirt and change the straps. I have used the McCalls pattern a few times and always end up making several alterations. The bust doesn't fit as snugly under the breast as the Marilyn pattern, its a drawstring/elastic across the top edge and it doesn't gather as much over the bust lining, its really meant for an A/B cup at the largest. The basic body shape though worked well with only minor adjustments at the hip. I added a simple two width gathered skirt to the bottom edge of the bodice, some elastic across the top back edge and did a button halter strap at the back neck. The entire bodice is lined in cotton i did put boning in the front and side seams to keep the waist smooth and bra cups are sewn inside the bust.

Thursday, July 31, 2014

Marilyn Monroe- River of No Return- Corset and Skirt

 Another great Marilyn Monroe outfit, this time from ''River of No Return'' Above is the finished outfit that was a clients request. Below is the sample set i made to test out the corset pattern, i ended up lengthening the front point a few inches for the corset above you can see the sample below. Both have a metal hook busk in the front and back lacing, the sample corset has buttons loops the final version has eyelets. The bottoms are a stretch brief with a silk/cotton blend fabric skirt over the top trimmed in red lace. The Marilyn pictures of course are below as well.

The sample corset set is available for sale at a great price you can check that out here :  it would make a great Halloween costume ;-)

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

White Cotton Sun Suit Tankini with Underwire Bra-Custom

This was a custom request with only the center model image to go by. There was no back image but because she wanted a stretch cotton fabric and not a typical swimwear fabric and she didn't want a zipper i decided to go with a scoop back and tie so that it could easily be put on and taken off. I also was guessing about the strap finishing but a standard adjustable back strap made the most sense. The bottoms are a basic low-rise brief with elastic edging.  I used a thin foam from a bra making suppler to line the cups and also used under wire. Inside i used a non-stretch white cotton that runs the full width of the bodice. Just 1/2 an inch under the bust and up between the cups and on the sides, like a bra front lining to keep the cups from stretching away from each other. I have noticed that a lot of cheap bustiers don't put in a non stretch support fabric between the cups and it never fits properly with out it. That's my little tip for the day :-)

Also if you are interested in having something made for you, my turn around is 4-6 months so do let me know ASAP! You can check out my Etsy shop under the same name Morningstar84